Now, we are going to decide how big you want the skirt.  This is going to be based on size.

Take your yardage.  I used my Sidney Skants basque for the basque for my skirt.  If you don’t have the ebook, then, cut your basque according to the directions below.

2. Multiply this by 1.5 or 2  (It depends on how full you want the basque to look…I like 1.5)
3. Now, determine the length you want the basque to be.  I am making a 4T, and mine is 4.75 inches long.  You need to take into account the size of the elastic and the casing that you will make for it.  I’m using 1 inch elastic.  So, my casing will take up an inch and a quarter folded over.  That means my basque will be 3.5 inches when sewn with the casing.  Then, when the next tier is added, it will be 3.25 inches.  I’m using 1/4 ” seam allowance.
So, the equation will be:
Length you want the basque + Amount to be folded for casing + 1/4″  for seam allowance = Length you need to cut
4. Now, you may cut your basque to these measurements:  Item 2 by Item 3
You may cut these into two pieces or leave as one long piece.  I like two pieces so that there is a seam on each side.
5. Now, your next layer needs to be 1.5  to 2 times the size of your basque.  To determine this, we have to remember that charm squares are approximately 5 inches by 5 inches. Multiply the width of your basque by 1.5 or 2, depending on how full you want the skirt to be.  Then, divide this by 5.  That should tell you how many charm squares you need.  Again, I’m making a 4T, and my second tier is 12 squares.
6. The third tier is made in the same way as the second. But instead of 1.5 to 2 times larger than the basque, you mulitply the second tier. Mine is 18 charm squares.
7. Those of you making larger sizes may want to add a third tier.  You would do that the same as the other charm layers but multiply the thrid tier.  You can also add length in the ruffle.
8. My skirt is going to have a ruffle, you can also add a band.  To cut the ruffle I first determined the length.  I decided to make the ruffle 3 inches long.  You will need to make your ruffle at least 2 times as wide as the last charm tier on your skirt.  I cut four strips 3 inches long and the width of the yard of fabric.
9. I like to stack my charm squares for their layers in the order in which they are to be sewn.  This makes it easier for the next step.

Here’s a photo of what the layers should look like when compared to each other:

I hope that I haven’t confused any of you!  If I have, ask away in the comments section!  Day three we will be sewing our charm layers together.