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Paula Pattern – Day 6

May 25, 2008

  • Day 1 – Pattern Preparation
  • Day 2 – Fabric Preparation & Cutting
  • Day 3 – Sewing of the Leg Pieces
  • Day 4 – Top-stitching
  • Day 5 – Hemming
  • Day 6 – Pockets

    Ok, today, we are going to add pockets to our pants.  These pockets are kind of small, especially on the smallest size.  I don’t think my daughter will get much use out of hers, but they add a nice decorative element to the pants. 

    The instructions for making the pockets on your pattern are pretty straight forward and easy to follow.

    You should have four pocket pieces cut, and they should all look exactly the same.  Take two of your pieces and place them with the right side of the fabric facing.  You are going to stitch the seam allowance all the way around the pocket, leaving a small opening for turning.  I found that you should start stitching on the top edge of the pocket. Start about a quarter of an inch from the center and stop stitching about a quarter of an inch on the other side of the center.  This will give you a large enough hole for turning.  If you start on the edges, your corners will not look correct.  I found this out the hard way.

    Now once you have stitched the pocket, trim the seam allowance close to your stitching…about an 1/8 of an inch away.  I also notched the curve so that it would lay flat.  I used a bamboo skewer as my turning tool.  I use the blunt end, not the point.  It is just the right size to really pop out those corners and get them to looking crisp. 

    After turning, take your pockets and press them.  Make sure that you turn under the seam allowance where you left a hole and press this down.  You want the pocket to lay flat, so press it well.

    Now, top-stitch the outside of the pockets.  This will close the hole that was left for turning.  I top-stitched an 1/8″ from the outside of the pocket.  Go slow while sewing these pockets.  They are so small that the turns can be tricky.  I find it helpful to leave my needle in the down position, and lift my foot ever so often to turn them.

    It is time to place the pockets on the pants.  Your markings should be visible to let you know where to place the pocket.  If it is not there, lay pattern piece 2 on top of its spot on your fabric and lay the pocket accordingly. It may help you get a better sense of where the pocket is going to be if you fold the leg in half.  That way you will be able to see what the finished product will look like.  Now, pin the pocket in place.

     

    Attaching the pocket is quite simple.  There are many ways to do this.  You could zig zag around the outside edge.  The Farbenmix sewing guide shows a suggestion.  They sew a line of stitching parallelling the top-stitch.  I did pretty much the same thing, but more simply and more roughly.  My stitching is a little off here, but not so bad as to have to re-do it.  Take your time and pick what works for you.  I simply did a tight zig zag at the beginning and end of each pocket with a straight stitch very close to the top-stitching.

     

    We’ve done it!  We’ve attached the pockets.  Our pants are really coming together.  The next step will really have them looking like pants.  We’ll sew the inseam and crotch seam on our next Paula pants day.  Here is a sneak peak.  This image also gives you a better look at the pockets.

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    2 Comments leave one →
    1. Fledgling permalink
      May 26, 2008 3:24 pm

      Hello Wondermommy!

      You have put in so much effort into sharing this sew-along! Thank you! This really is wonder(mommy)ful.

      There is one little thing that I would like to add and it comes right at cutting the layout…

      I get many comments like “PAULA runs small” and just as often “PAULA runs big”. Well, frankly, it all comes down to the seam allowance. Since there are so many vertical seams, a couple of millimeters plus or minus on each seam allowance times 8 (actually times 16) really adds up.

      I like to suggest taking a measurement from a pair of trousers, which fits well, around the hip from the fly to the back rise and writing that down where I will remember to look at it 😉 I like to stitch four and four of the eight leg pieces, re-measure and trim at the outer edges if necessary, or stitch these remaining seams with less or more seam allowance as required.

      Frankly, if the sewist sticks to the 1 cm seam allowance in cutting and the 1 cm seam allowance in stitching, the trousers run true to size.

      Again, thank you for all your effort and this amazing support!

      All the best, Nancy (studioTANTRUM/fledge)

    2. wondermommy permalink
      May 26, 2008 5:23 pm

      Thanks so much for your comment and your help. This is a great help!

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