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Paula Pattern – Day 8

May 31, 2008


  • Day 1 – Pattern Preparation
  • Day 2 – Fabric Preparation & Cutting
  • Day 3 – Sewing of the Leg Pieces
  • Day 4 – Top-stitching
  • Day 5 – Hemming
  • Day 6 – Pockets
  • Day 7 – Seams
  • Yes, this is our last day of making our Paula pants.  I hope that you’ve enjoyed our Sew-A-Long.  I know that I have.  I really, really hope that this sew-a-long has helped you where you’ve needed it.  Now, let’s get down to business.

    Day 8 – Waistband

    The first thing you need to do is trim any threads that are sticking out at the top.  If you serged, there will be a lot of them.  You don’t have to worry about securing them back through your seams because they will be secure in your waistband. 

    You also need to make sure that your waistband piece is the same length as the length around the top of your pants, plus seam allowance.  If it is smaller than this measurement, you will need to cut a longer piece.  If it is longer than this measurement, you will need to trim it down some.  I didn’t have any problems.  My piece was the correct length once I got to this stage.  I hope yours is, too, but don’t worry if it isn’t.  Just make the corrections that I have just explained.  The pattern states that the waistband has a seam allowance included, but doesn’t say what that is.  I just assumed that the seam allowance was 3/8 of an inch.  This worked just fine.

    The pattern directions are pretty detailed for putting the waistband on.  You might get a little confused, so that is why I am here with tons of pictures.  Don’t forget to look at the sewing guide on Farbenmix’s website.  It can be a great help, too, even if you don’t speak German.

    Ok, here we go.  Make sure you are following along with your pattern.  My directions work with your pattern directions, not instead of them.  This is just a supplemental guide.

    You need to stitch the short ends of the waistband together, leaving an opening in the bottom 1/3rd for elastic insertion.  Here is what that should look like:

     Now, it is time to pin the waistband into place.  Pin the right side of the waistband to the inside of the pants.  That would be the wrong side of the pants. I attached the center seam of the waistband to the center of the back of the pants. Now, let’s take a look at that:

    Now, sew the waistband in place using a 3/8″ seam allowance. 

    For the next step, you need to take your pants to the ironing board.  The waistband needs to come up and over to meet the front of the pants.  So, first, you need to iron the waistband to an upright position.  Then, start ironing about a 3/8″ crease all the way across.


    Next, you need to fold the waistband over so that the seam we just created meets the front of the pants.  You want to make sure that the line of stitching created by sewing the waistband to the pants is covered.  Now, you will need to fix this in place by ironing and pinning. Instead of pinning, I used Wash Away Wonder Tape.  This worked perfectly for holding the waistband in place.

    March back to your sewing machine…pants in hand.  Now, comes all of the stitching.

    Now, follow the directions on your pattern for top-stitching.  You should go: bottom, top, then middle.  I found it helpful to iron after every row of stitching.  This kept the casing looking crisp and my lines straight. I also wanted to note that I stitched the middle row about 5/8 of an inch from the top.  Make sure that when you are doing the middle line that you leave a space so that you can insert your elastic.  You do not want to close up that hole.  I have to point out a mistake in my sewing.  I left a space in the top stitching.  I had to go back and fix this later.  Make sure you continue this line all the way around.

    It is elastic time.  Find an elastic that fits in your casing spots. I used 3/8″ elastic…make sure this will fit in the casings that you have made.  Measure your child’s waist.  Cut the elastic to this length.  Measure about an inch on each side of the elastic.  I just used my chalk pencil.  This is where you will sew the elastic together.  Make sure you do this to another piece of elastic, too. You want two pieces.


    Now, use a safety pin or a bodkin and run your elastic through the casings.  When you have run the first piece all the way through, overlap the pieces where you drew the lines.  I used Wash Away Wonder Tape to stick them together, but you can use a pin.  Sew them together under your sewing machine.  I use a zig zag stitch and run it over the spot a couple of times.  Then, pull the pants so that the elastic is completely in the pants.  Repeat this for the second piece of elastic.  It will take some tugging and adjusting to settle the elastic into place.  Make sure the pants are uniform all around the waistband.


    The elastic needs to be stitched into place and the casing closed.  This can be done with one line of stitched vertically down the seam of the waistband.  I also chose to finish the line of stitching on the center casing line.

    Guess what?  You are done!  Way to go!  Now, you have a great, fashionable pair of pants.  I love the way mine turned out.  The Bell Bottoms fabric was perfect for this pattern.  I love the Paula Pattern.  I see it getting much more use in the future.  What are you waiting for?!?!?!?!  Try them on your little one.  Make sure you check back here on Sunday.  I’ll show you my complete outfit.  You didn’t think I could get away without making a matching shirt did you!

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