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Rachel Sew-a-Long Day 2

February 10, 2009

rachelsewalongWelcome to Day 2 of our Sew-a-long.  Hopefully, you have all of your materials gathered so that you can just jump right in. 

You may have noticed that the instructions are in German, but don’t let that stop you.  I don’t speak German, either, but if you have any sewing experience you can decipher them.

First, let’s talk about the phrase im Bruch.  You will notice on the piece list that this occurs after a few of the pieces.  Think about it a minute and the translation will come to you.  It means on fold!  So, where you see this phrase, you will need to cut that piece on fold.  Pieces 1, 5, and 8 are fold pieces. 

Now, you may understand the piece number, but not the words after the number.  These aren’t really that important.  You can decipher where they go and what they are by looking at the piece diagram to the side.  Then, look at the finished dress on the front.  I’ve made you a couple of diagrams to help.



Now, you can see how each piece corresponds to the finished piece.  The name of the piece isn’t really that important…you just need to know where it goes and its number.

You may notice on the diagram that the underskirt isn’t numbered.  You will see under the piece list there are a couple of items with measurements after them.  Volant unten innen is the underskirt.  That is the first measured list.  Just pick your size from that list, turn your ruler to the metric side and cut your piece according to the measurements.  I’m making the 98/104 size, so my underskirt will be 118 cm X 23 cm.  This is probably easiest cut with a rotary tool and mat.  Cut two of these!

Now, we need to cut ties.  The Bindeband are the ties.  Since I am making 98/104, I will use the 86-128 size which is 3 cm X 50 cm.  Make sure you cut two of these. 

There is also a decision between long sleeves or short sleeves in my diagram above the model is wearing long sleeves.  For long sleeves you cut pieces 10 (2 times) and 11 (8 times).  Piece 11 is the pointed piece at the bottom of the sleeve.  For short sleeves you will only need to cut piece 7 twice.  I’m going to be making the short sleeve version this time, but I will give you guidance on the long sleeves.  They are done the same was as the pointed pieces on the dress.

If you are using multiple fabrics, I suggest writing all the pieces that you need to cut and which fabric you are using for that piece.  This will help you keep the pieces and fabrics straight in your mind.  There is nothing worse than having to re-cut something in the middle of a project.

I will be using two different fabrics:  Purple Gingham and Easter .  So, here is the way that I’m cutting the pieces:

1,2,5, 7, 8, 9, and underskirt – Easter

3, 4, 6 – Purple Gingham

You are also going to need approximately 4 buttons.  This really depends on what size they are and the dress size. 

You will need fusible interfacing the same size as piece 8 and 9.  You will also need enough for the button bands.  On your pattern piece 2, the button bands are marked with a straight line.  Do not confuse it with the grain line.  The grain line is fadenlauf in German.  You will see it on the other pieces.

I just have one more quick note here…I’m not adding a seam allowance to my pattern pieces this time.  Sid is skinny and they usually fit better on her without the seam allowance being added.  If you have a child that is average or stocky, you will need to add the seam allowance to your pieces.  The seam allowance needs to be added to all sewn sides.  Do not add it to the fold side of the pieces that are cut on the fold.

Day Two is a lot of words, but there is no other way to explain all of this information.  There will be more pictures and less talking in the days to follow.  Get your pattern pieces cut and I’ll meet you back here for Day 3.

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